Mammals

Care- A sound rabbit diet consists of fresh hay, good-quality pellets, and fresh vegetables or fruit. Anything beyond this is considered a "treat" and should be offered in limited quantities only.

Offer young rabbits unlimited amounts of calcium and protein-rich alfalfa hay and alfalfa-based pellets. Very young rabbits, between 7 to 12 weeks, should not be offered vegetables and NEVER fruit as devastating gastrointestinal problems can arise. As the rabbit matures, gradually reduce the quantity of pellets offered and transition to grass hay-based pellets. Approximately ¼ cup of pellets is recommended daily for the average medium-sized rabbit.

Essential supplies for all indoor rabbit habitats include a water bottle or bowl, feed bowl, hay, and toys. Bowls need to be heavy enough not to be tipped over. Provide a litter box with organic litter. Do not use softwood shavings such as pine or cedar. Grass mats, recycled paper product, or aspen shavings work great. It is also helpful to attach the litter pan to the cage with clips, wire, or 2.5-cm (1-in) C-clamps.

Bunny proofing your home is part of living with a house rabbit. It is natural for rabbits to chew on furniture, rugs, drapes, and, most deadly of all, electrical cords. Young rabbits (< 1 year of age) are more inclined to mischief and require more confinement and/or bunny proofing than mature rabbits. Since bunny proofing can be extensive, some owners confine house rabbits to one or two rooms instead of allowing access to the entire home.

It is imperative that electrical cords be hidden or covered with tubing or hard plastic casing since one bite by your bunny could be fatal. Arrange furniture to hide cords and electrical outlets. Conceal cords within vinyl tubing, found at hardware stores, so that the rabbit cannot reach them. Split the tubing lengthwise with a utility knife so the cord can be pushed inside.

Remove poisonous plants and other toxic substances as well as any small objects that could be ingested from the rabbit area. Provide plenty of attention and offer safe, chewable items so that your rabbit is distracted from furniture and rugs.

Place the cage in the coolest, least humid area of the house away from heat and drafts. A temperature range of 60-70°F is ideal for pet rabbits. Temperatures in the upper 80s and higher can potentially cause fatal heat stroke. During hot weather, leave a frozen bottle of water in the cage and wet down the ears to help cool the bunny. Cool tiles can also be offered as a refreshing spot on which rabbits can lie in warm weather.

Offering your hand for a rabbit to sniff, much as you would to a cat or dog, is not the best way to introduce yourself to most rabbits. Most rabbits do not like to have the tip of the nose or chin touched either. Instead begin by gently stroking the top of the head.

Rabbits possess a relatively lightweight, delicate skeleton paired with extremely strong, well-developed back and leg muscles. With improper handling, rabbits that struggle or kick run the risk of a broken back or leg. Veterinary staff can demonstrate the proper way to pick up a pet rabbit. NEVER lift a rabbit by the ears or scruff.

Enrichments- Rabbits enjoy lots of care and attention, and can never get enough of it. You must devote some time every day to attend to your rabbit’s physical, mental and social needs. With that being said, rabbits also really enjoy playing with toys, so it is important to make sure they have enough, and even switch them out with different toys once in a while.

Climbing is another form of exercise that helps to stretch and strengthen their fragile muscles. An old shoebox can be great for this as you can remodel it into a mini house with “window-like” perforations around it for light and air.

Another way to provide the right enrichment for your rabbit is to bring home a companion. Rabbits may enjoy a little alone time by themselves but still, need the company of other rabbits. A friendly companion will be great for your bunny at some point in their lives.

If you can’t get or find a suitable companion for your pet bunny, you can get a mirror for it to play in front of. These are great for dealing with boredom and loneliness because your rabbit will get excited as soon as it sees its reflection in the mirror. It may even think their reflection is a companion and may attempt to play with it.

Care- Ferrets have a reputation for being escape artists, so it is recommended to use a single- or multi-level, open wire cage designed for ferrets with a solid floor and a secure door. Due to lack of ventilation, glass enclosures (such a fish tanks) are not recommended.

The cage should be located in a quiet area where the temperature can be kept between 60 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit and should include bedding (like a towel, blanket or old shirt) that should be washed a minimum of once per week.

A litter box that fits in the cage should be filled with recycled newspaper products or aspen shavings. Avoid cedar and pine shavings, which can irritate the respiratory tract, and clay or clumping cat litter, which may be ingested by ferrets. Clean the litter box daily.

Ferrets are carnivores and should eat premium commercial food that is high in fat and protein and specifically formulated for ferrets. They should not be fed dairy products, fruits, vegetables, or foods high in fiber, carbohydrates, or sugar. And, of course, ferrets should have fresh water every day.

Because ferrets like to chew and swallow things, their toys must be sturdy and have no small parts that can be broken or pulled off. Toys made of foam rubber, latex, or plastic that might be chewed should be avoided, Johnson said. If possible, create “ferret-proofed” area for playtime by covering openings into walls, blocking spaces behind cabinets and removing any appliances or breakable items.

Ferrets love interacting with their owners, so be sure to spend time at least one hour with them every day and consider having more than one ferret to help keep them entertained.

Ferrets are naturally clean animals and groom themselves often. They shed twice a year, however, and should be combed during these times to remove loose fur, in addition to regular nail trimmings and monthly teeth brushing. Baths with shampoo made for ferrets can help tame their naturally musky odor but should not be given too frequently.

Enrichments- Soil or sand pit for digging, trying different sleeping options, social enrichments with a companion or other pets around the house, a ferret wheel that keeps them entertained and allows them to play for hours.

Care- While guinea pigs do not require routine vaccinations, an annual exam and parasite check is recommended. Seek out a veterinarian who is experienced in treating guinea pigs and is familiar with medical conditions such as: vitamin C deficiency (scurvy), overgrown teeth, colds and pneumonia, bladder stones, infections, and parasites. If a guinea pig seems droopy, has a dull coat and/or is losing hair, eats very little or nothing, has soft droppings, or is otherwise acting abnormally, consult a veterinarian immediately. Refrain from using any medications intended for dogs or cats.

Spaying or neutering guinea pigs carries risks as it does with any animal, and must only be done by a veterinarian with guinea pig knowledge and experience. If you choose not to sterilize your pet, we discourage pairing male and female guinea pigs together.

Guinea pig grooming involves regular toenail trimming, ear cleaning, combing, and bathing.

Guinea pigs require unlimited amounts of fresh green grass hay (usually timothy). Alfalfa hay and alfalfa treats are okay for young guinea pigs and pregnant or malnourished adults, but otherwise should not be given on a regular basis. Most guinea pig pellets are alfalfa based, which is fairly high in calcium. Feeding additional alfalfa hay or treats may provide too much calcium and lead to bladder stone problems in some guinea pigs.

Feed pellets made specifically for guinea pigs. Use a heavy bowl that cannot be tipped. Feed approximately ¼ - ½ c. of fresh pellets per animal daily. Avoid brands that contain lots of seeds and nuts, because the fat content of these foods is often too high for adult guinea pigs and they make choke on large or whole seeds. Fresh water must always be available, preferably in an easy-to-reach water bottle. Food bowls and water bottles should be cleaned and refilled with fresh food and water daily.

Guinea pigs require vitamin C on a daily basis. Since the vitamin C in pellets can dissipate over time, vitamin C can be supplemented by adding the proper dose of powdered or liquid vitamin C to the guinea pig's food or water, by giving it orally, or by supplementing the diet with high C fruits and veggies (although it's more difficult to supplement the correct amount). The recommended dosage is 30 mg/day for an average adult. Liquid C, a human supplement sold at most health and nutrition stores, is a pleasant tasting liquid and is easy to administer.

Fresh greens and vegetables can be fed in moderation. Too large a quantity or variety can cause diarrhea or other digestive or nutritional problems. Guinea pigs can be given: parsley, bell peppers, romaine lettuce, live wheat grass (sold at some pet stores), carrot tops, celery leaves, clover, spinach, green alfalfa, chemical-free dandelion leaves and fresh grass, carrots, grapes, apple, cranberry (also dried cranberry), and a little citrus fruit. Vegetables belonging to the cabbage family (kale, broccoli, cauliflower) should be very limited (or avoided) as they can cause bloat, a serious condition. Fresh foods should always be thoroughly rinsed. Introduce any new food item in small amounts to allow a guinea pig's system to adjust to it gradually.

The best guinea pig cages are usually wire cages with a solid bottom (metal or plastic) that are easily removed for cleaning. Wire cage bottoms are not recommended as they can easily injure your pet’s toes or feet. A cage for a single guinea pig should be at least 24” wide x 24” long and at minimum 15” high. For two or more guinea pigs, a minimum 24” x 36” floor size is recommended. Add a small house inside the cage so the guinea pig has a private refuge when stressed or tired. This can be a small cardboard box or a commercially produced house available at your local pet store.

Aquariums and plastic tubs are NOT recommended. They are usually not large enough, do not offer proper ventilation, and isolate the guinea pig from its surroundings by inhibiting sight, sound, and smell.

To ensure the good health of your guinea pig, bedding must be kept clean. Aspen or kiln-dried pine shavings are good, inexpensive bedding. Hay/straw can be used but is messier to clean and not as absorbent. The recycled pelleted beddings on the market are very nice but more expensive. Cedar bedding and pine bedding NOT kiln-dried is not acceptable, as the oils in the wood pose health risks to guinea pigs.

A guinea pig must be an indoor pet except in tropical climates. When providing housing for guinea pigs, keep the area dry and free from drafts, and maintain a temperature between 65-79 degrees. A guinea pig’s cage should be in an environment that's well lit (but not exposed to direct sunlight) and offers the guinea pig access to daily human activities.

A suitably sized cage and play time with you every day will meet your guinea pig's exercise needs. Exercise wheels or balls are not recommended as guinea pigs usually don't enjoy them and they may even injure your pet's spine, legs, or feet.

When picking up your guinea pig, be sure to support his entire body with two hands. Guinea pigs are easily injured if dropped, and may nip or bite if not properly handled. Children should always be supervised when handling guinea pigs.

Interactions with dogs, cats, and other pets should always be carefully supervised. Never leave a guinea pig unattended in the presence of a dog, cat, ferret, or any other predatory animal.

Enrichments- Guinea pigs are very social creatures and require daily attention from their human friends and/or other guinea pigs. If you live in a household where everyone is gone much of the day, please consider having two guinea pigs to keep each other company. Guinea pigs kept in pairs will be happier and more entertaining pets.

Care- Hamster housing should provide at least a 15-20 gallon cage, with at least 150 square inches of solid (not wire) floor space, but bigger is always better. Wire cages, aquariums, and plastic habitats can be used as long as they provide a safe, escape-proof home for your hamster—hamsters are escape artists!

Housing must be well-ventilated to allow fresh air; this prevents buildup of odor from urine, feces, and spoiled food. Hamsters, with few exceptions, should always be housed alone, as they can be fiercely territorial and cause a great deal of damage to each other through fighting.

Preferred bedding materials include Carefresh, grass hay, and Yesterday's News. It is also acceptable to use plain white unscented toilet paper or paper towels on a temporary basis.

Do not use cedar or pine shavings, as they contain aromatic oils that are very irritating to hamster skin and mucous membranes. Commercial nesting materials (commonly called “fluff”) are not recommended because they may lead to intestinal blockages, pouch impactions, or strangulated limbs.

Bedding should be changed 1-2 times a week with enough depth to allow the hamster to burrow and dig, especially under hides. Hamsters seek secluded, quiet areas for sleep, so hideaways are especially important within the habitat.

Preferred cage temperatures are 65-80 degrees Fahrenheit, with relative humidity around 40-70%. In temperatures below 40 degrees Fahrenheit, hamsters can go into a state of torpor, which is similar to hibernation.

Hamsters do very well on commercial diets, pellets, or blocks, containing around 16% protein. Oxbow and Kaytee are preferred pellet or block brands that hamsters thrive on. Work with your veterinarian to determine your hamster’s caloric needs based on their size and health, but most hamsters require ⅛-⅓ cup of pellets per day.

Seed-based diets are “formulated” and sold for hamsters, but these should be used sparingly and as a supplement only to pellets. Seed-based diets do not provide necessary nutrients and commonly lead to obesity and vitamin E deficiency.

Annual veterinary visits are essential to maintaining your hamster’s health. Your vet will perform a thorough exam, record your hamster’s weight, check for dental disease, and review diet and husbandry. They can also assist in trimming nails and catching medical problems early.

Hamsters have an anatomical difference from other rodent species that can confuse their owners. Hamsters have raised, pigmented glands on their hips that may look like hair loss or tumors. These are scent glands and not a lesion or dermatitis. It is always a good idea to have these glands checked by a veterinarian if they are not symmetrical or have other concerns.

Like many prey species, hamsters may hide illness until it is fairly progressed. Healthy hamsters are alert, with bright eyes. They will explore their surroundings and have a clean, shiny coat. A healthy hamster will not have nasal or ocular discharge, and normal nail and tooth length. Always call your vet at the first sign of lethargy, difficulty breathing, nasal discharge, sneezing, decreased appetite, behavior changes, or any other concerns.

Both the food bowl and water sipper should be cleaned and provided fresh daily. Most hamsters will drink from a water bottle secured to the side of the cage with a lick spout. Cages should be cleaned weekly or as needed. Constant exposure to unsanitary conditions is unpleasant for hamsters and can result in infections of the skin, eyes, and respiratory tract. Make sure to keep 1-2 corners of the cage available for urination/defecation, far away from sleeping and eating quarters.

Diluted bleach (1 part bleach to 10 parts water) is effective for sanitizing a cage but the cage must be rinsed thoroughly after cleaning and dried before reintroducing a hamster to prevent respiratory and skin irritation.

Hamster coats should be brushed regularly, especially long-haired breeds. Hamsters also require periodic nail trims. Contact your vet if your hamster’s nails overgrow or look abnormal. Owners should monitor hamsters for any growths, check their teeth for dental disease, and check their rear ends for fecal buildup or urine staining.

Hamsters typically keep themselves clean and do not require additional bathing with soap and water, unless instructed to do so by your vet. However, some hamsters, especially Dwarf breeds, do enjoy regular sand baths, using chinchilla sand products. It is important to remove sand from the cage when hamsters are finished bathing to not be a constant respiratory irritant.

Hamsters are nocturnal and easily scared if awakened suddenly. They do not have good eyesight, so it is encouraged to speak to them before picking them up. Hamsters will nip when frightened or poorly socialized. As a result, they are generally poorly suited as pets for small children.

Hamsters may also bite if roughly handled, startled, or are feeling ill. To hold, owners can use a two-handed technique, involving cupping the hamster gently. Because of cheek pouches, hamsters have a lot of extra skin around the neck. A gentle but firm grasp of the scruff of the hamster’s neck can help restrain them; however, this should only last for a few moments.

To begin handling a new or young hamster, start by offering small, high-value treats. Daily handling is important. First, handling helps to socialize hamsters, tame them, and make them more friendly. Some will even become affectionate and enjoy this time with their owners. Daily handling also provides environmental enrichment. This, along with frequent rotation of toys, helps fight boredom. This daily interaction should start in quick, frequent episodes and gradually work to longer stretches of time, if a hamster is agreeable. Working with babies in this way frequently leads to a docile, tame, and rarely nippy hamsters.

Enrichments- Hamsters love toys and utilize them to meet a variety of needs, from chewing, climbing, exploring, burrowing, and hiding. Many hamster owners use paper bags, cardboard boxes with holes cut out, hideaways, and paper towel rolls to provide enrichment for their hamsters. Solid connector tunnels also provide for environmental enrichment but should be cleaned weekly.

Hamsters usually enjoy running in exercise wheels. Make sure to only provide wheels with a solid running surface to prevent injury.

Most veterinarians recommend blocks or chew sticks specifically designed for rodents for enrichment, as well as to help keep the teeth healthy. Regular rotation of toys can keep hamsters engaged and not bored.

Care- Gerbils need a habitat that’s at least one cubic foot large (12 inches wide, 12 inches deep, 12 inches tall). This cage can be either a wire or an aquarium tank. If you opt for an aquarium tank, make sure it’s at least 10 gallons and has a wire mesh top that’s secure. Line the bottom of the tank or cage with 1–2 inches of bedding that’s safe for gerbils. Do not use pine or cedar shavings as these off-gas materials that are toxic to gerbils.

In addition to a cage, you will also need to provide your gerbil with a food dish and a water bottle. Provide your gerbil something to chew on as well; they need something somewhat hard and abrasive to chew on to keep their teeth filed down. This could be an untreated piece of wood, a stick from outside, or even a dog biscuit, but your local pet store is likely to have something gerbil-specific.

Gerbils usually do fine with a gerbil pellet/seed mixture. It should contain around 12% protein content and around 7% fat content. Look for the gerbil food to have a mix of pellets, grains, dried veggies, and seeds.

In addition to store-bought food, you can give your gerbil fresh veggies and fruit. Fresh veggies and fruits that your gerbil will love include carrot, lettuce, peas, broccoli, mango, kiwi, pineapple, and banana. To keep a watch on food allergies, introduce these foods one at a time, and wait a few days before introducing a new food.

NEVER feed your gerbil cabbage, uncooked beans, chocolate, onions, candy, or junk food.

You should provide your gerbil with fresh water all the time, and change the water daily if you can. The best way to give your gerbil water is to attach an inverted bottle to the cage, where your gerbil can drink freely by licking the metal ball at the end, allowing water to come out.

Fill your gerbil’s food bowl with the pellet/seed gerbil food about ¼ full every day. On top of that, give your gerbil a small amount of fresh food twice a week. One teaspoon of a fruit or veggie is plenty.

Your gerbil might be quite timid at first. When you introduce them to their new home, leave them be for 3 to 4 days as they need time to adjust to their surroundings. After this time, try offering them some food from your hand. Once they get comfortable here, you can try to pick them up. You can do this by scooping them up into your hand. You should never pick a gerbil up by its tail or grab onto the tail in any way, as it could cause injury.

Gerbils stay cleaner than other rodents, but they still need some help cleaning their cage. Remove any soiled bedding as soon as you notice it. The bedding should be completely changed at least once a month, but more like twice a month for two or more gerbils. Check the hide houses regularly and clean them out, too.

Every 3 to 4 weeks, disinfect the gerbil cage or aquarium. Wash the food dish and water bottle when they get dirty, too.

The cage should be kept indoors in a room that stays between 65 and 75 degrees Farenheit. Do not put the cage in direct sunlight, and keep the cage away from other animals that might disturb the gerbil. If the gerbils’ nocturnal behavior bothers you, keep their cage out of your bedroom.

Once you’ve got your gerbil hand-trained, you can take them out of their cage for exercise. 20 minutes a day is a good place to start. Keep an eye on them during this time, and make sure the enclosure is escape-proof. You could try putting them in a ball to run around the house too, just make sure they are on the floor and not in danger of getting stepped on or falling down the stairs. It’s also a good idea to make sure other pets are caged up or outside.

Once you’ve got your gerbil hand-trained, you can take them out of their cage for exercise. 20 minutes a day is a good place to start. Keep an eye on them during this time, and make sure the enclosure is escape-proof. You could try putting them in a ball to run around the house too, just make sure they are on the floor and not in danger of getting stepped on or falling down the stairs. It’s also a good idea to make sure other pets are caged up or outside.

Gerbils do very well with the company of other gerbils. A same-sex pair living together is an ideal situation.

Gerbils are great at cleaning themselves, but to help them naturally do that, give your gerbil access to some sand. These natural desert creatures will use the sand to get rid of any bacteria sticking on their coat. To do this, get a dish more than ½ inch deep, fill it with chinchilla sand (not dust) ½-inch full. Put the sand bath in the tank for 10 minutes once a week, and your gerbil should take care of the rest.

If you have noticed that your gerbil’s nails have curled too much or started to grow back towards their feet, you will have to help them by trimming them up.

Enrichments- To enrich the life of your gerbil, make sure there are multiple levels in the cage for your gerbil to explore. An exercise wheel is ideal too, as well as a little hiding box or igloo for your gerbil to sleep in or escape into when he desires. Gerbils also love to play in cardboard tubes or PVC pipes, so if you have any extras, you can put them in your gerbil habitat. Your gerbil sure will appreciate it!

Care- For your chinchilla's cage, choose a multilevel home with platforms, solid-floor ramps, and perches. The cage at minimum should be 4 feet by 4 feet by 3 feet.3

But the larger the cage, the better. Wire cages are the best material to allow for ventilation. Choose one with a solid floor that's easy on chinchilla feet.

Within the cage, add a chinchilla exercise wheel (with solid flooring, not bars), pet-safe chew toys, a nest or shelter of some sort, and food and water dishes. In addition, a "chinchilla block" or pumice block can be provided for chewing, and this will aid in keeping the chinchilla's teeth in good condition.

Line the cage with a few inches of dye-free paper bedding. Avoid pine and cedar shavings, as they can irritate a chinchilla's respiratory tract. Spot-clean soiled bedding daily, and do a full bedding change weekly when you wash everything in the enclosure with mild soap and water.

The temperature should remain between 65 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit. While chinchillas are tolerant to cold, heat stroke can occur in warmer temperatures.

Chinchillas are herbivores and have specific dietary requirements. They require a lot of roughage, so their diet should mainly consist of good-quality grass hay, such as timothy hay. Feed an unlimited amount of hay each day, making sure some is always available. You can use a special hay feeder called a hopper, or simply pile it on the enclosure floor.

To supplement the hay, offer a commercial pelleted chinchilla food. Discuss the best quantity with your vet, as this can vary based on factors such as size and activity level. Place a day’s worth of pellets in a ceramic bowl in the chinchilla’s enclosure. Dispose of any uneaten pellets after 24 hours before adding the next day’s portion.

You also can offer certain fruits and veggies as occasional treats, but you should run the types of food and quantities by your vet first. Place any fresh food in a separate dish in the enclosure, and remove it after a few hours to prevent spoilage.

Finally, always have fresh water available to your chinchilla. You can use a small water dish, but a water bottle is easier to keep sanitary. However, make sure the chinchilla is using the bottle before removing the dish. Refresh the water daily.

Chinchillas need lots of activity to keep them mentally stimulated and physically fit, warding off health issues such as obesity. This means you'll need a variety of toys for chinchillas to keep them busy and active. And you'll especially need safe items for chewing to wear down their continuously growing teeth. Besides toys marketed specifically for chinchillas, some wooden parrot toys also are good for them, as are the willow balls and rings that you often can find for rabbits. Make sure the toys don't have small and/or plastic parts that could be ingested.

Moreover, exercise wheels can be excellent for chinchillas to burn some energy. Look for a 15-inch wheel (anything smaller will be too small for most adult chinchillas) with a solid running surface and an open side with no cross supports as there are in wire wheels, which can be dangerous to feet and tails.

Out-of-cage time also is key for exercise. However, avoid the plastic exercise balls that you often see for other small animals, such as hamsters, as these pose an overheating risk for chinchillas. Instead, chinchilla-proof a small room by removing electrical cords and other hazardous items, and allow your chinchilla to explore the space under your supervision ideally for a few hours per day.

Chinchillas should never be bathed in water. As natives of arid climates, chinchillas need access to a dust bath to maintain a healthy coat and skin. The sand mixture absorbs excess oils and removes dirt. Purchase commercial chinchilla dust, and add a couple of inches to a container that your chinchilla can easily fit in. Place the container in the enclosure for about 10 to 15 minutes per day. Change the dust weekly to keep it sanitary.

Enrichments- Training is a great way to provide enrichment to your chinchilla. The most common training people do with chinchillas is hand-taming. To do so, always move slowly around your chinchilla, as sudden movements can startle it. You can attract it to your hands by holding a favorite treat. Get your chinchilla accustomed to gentle petting before attempting to pick it up. To attempt picking it up, let it walk onto your hands. (It helps if you're holding a treat.) Then, carefully lift it with both hands, so it feels secure.

Care and Enrichments can be found in blog

Care and Enrichments can be found in blog